IT ISN’T ALWAYS THAT SIMPLE Interestingly, at times, down-travel can have unexpected results. For example, if the track is extremely bumpy, less down-travel may actually be better because instead of going into all the holes, the car skips over them! At other times, more down-travel may actually be better on a high-grip track, as the driver has more control over the point at which anything unexpected occurs, and everything happens more slowly. It can be confusing, but the best way to figure it out is on the track. So get out and start testing. this figure will give you your actual droop setting. Doing this, you can easily compare no matter what setup you run for shocks and hubs, and you can also compare with other cars. The last way is to place the car, without wheels, on standard height blocks and measure the distance from the surface to the bottom of the wheel hex threads. Using this measurement, you just have to know what the measurements are that work, and work with them. This method is a bit counter-intuitive, as a smaller distance equals more droop, and vice versa. ADJUSTING DROOP FOR HANDLING Droop affects the handling of the car greatly, so it doesn’t require extreme adjustments to notice a difference. Just a few millimeters’ change is already clearly noticeable. It is important to find a strong starting setting that will always work well, and then for each track, try adjusting shock length 1- to 2mm each way, with different combinations in the front and rear. This translates to a bit more in actual wheel movement, but it is enough. Larger changes are not used, as they would upset the overall balance of the car. Nice photos JQ! WWW.VRCMAG.COM 97
VRC_014_JQDroop
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